Thailand

In December 2023 we went on our honeymoon to Thailand. Fifteen nights, from 5 to 20 December: temples and street food in Bangkok, elephants in Chiang Mai, then island hopping down the Andaman coast through Phuket, Phi Phi and Railay, a night on a floating resort in Khao Sok, and five slow days on Koh Samui to finish.

We split the trip into one guide per stop, with how we got from one place to the next. This page is the overview: the route, what to sort out before you go and where we slept.

Tip: The prices in these guides are the ones we noted when we planned the trip in 2023. Check them before you go.

Our route

• Bangkok, 2 nights: the Grand Palace, Wat Pho, Wat Arun and Chinatown.
• Chiang Mai, 2 nights: Old Town temples, night markets, an elephant sanctuary and Doi Suthep.
• Phuket, 3 nights: one in Phuket Town and two in Nai Harn, in the south of the island.
• Koh Phi Phi, 1 night: Maya Bay, Pileh Lagoon and a private long-tail boat tour.
• Railay, 1 night: limestone cliffs, Phra Nang Beach and sunset on Railay West.
• Khao Sok, 1 night: a floating resort on Cheow Lan Lake.
• Koh Samui, 5 nights: beaches, waterfalls, the Big Buddha and night markets.

Getting around

• Bangkok to Chiang Mai: a domestic flight, 12.20pm to 1.35pm.
• Chiang Mai to Phuket: another flight, 12.45pm to 2.50pm.
• Phuket to Phi Phi: speedboat from Rassada Pier, about €17 each.
• Phi Phi to Railay: speedboat, about €23 each.
• Railay to Khao Sok: long-tail boat to Ao Nang, private taxi to Ratchaprapha Pier and the resort's boat across the lake.
• Khao Sok to Koh Samui: van and ferry.
• Koh Samui to Bangkok: a flight, and from Bangkok the flight home.

Tip: We booked all the boats and the van on 12go.asia, which shows every operator and timetable in one place.

Before you go

• An eSIM: we used a 15-day unlimited dtac eSIM and an Airalo one. Install it before you fly and turn off roaming on your normal SIM.
• Grab, the Asian Uber, for taxis and scooters with a driver.
• Clothes for temples: shoulders and knees must be covered in almost every temple in Thailand. A light scarf and long trousers in your day bag solve it.
• Start every day early. It is cooler, and the big sights are much calmer before the tour groups arrive.

Where we slept

• Bangkok: The Quarter Hualamphong by UHG.
• Chiang Mai: Hyde Park Chiang Mai.
• Phuket Town: Blu Monkey Hub and Hotel Phuket.
• Nai Harn, Phuket: Roost Glamping.
• Koh Phi Phi: Coco Bella Hotel.
• Railay: Railay Garden View Resort.
• Khao Sok: Panvaree The Greenery, a floating resort on Cheow Lan Lake.
• Koh Samui: The Privilege Hotel Ezra Beach Club.

What to eat

• Pad thai, stir-fried rice noodles.
• Tom yum goong, the spicy and sour shrimp soup.
• Som tam, spicy green papaya salad.
• Pak boong, stir-fried morning glory.
• Gai tod, Thai fried chicken.
• Mango sticky rice and coconut ice cream for dessert.