Bangkok

Bangkok was our first stop: golden temples, a river full of boats, rooftop bars and some of the best street food in the world. We landed at Suvarnabhumi Airport at 2.55pm on 5 December 2023 and stayed two nights.

Getting from the airport

The Airport Rail Link is the easiest way into the city: fast, clean and cheap. With changes, count on an hour to an hour and a half to the centre.

Where to Sleep?

We stayed at The Quarter Hualamphong by UHG, close to Chinatown and the old Hua Lamphong station.

Tip: Cover your shoulders and knees in the temples. Most of them will not let you in otherwise.

Day 1 - Chinatown, the Golden Mount and Khao San Road

1. Chinatown and Wat Traimit

Bangkok's Chinatown runs along Yaowarat Road, all neon signs, gold shops and street food. Its most important temple is Wat Traimit, the Temple of the Golden Buddha, home to a Buddha statue made of more than five tonnes of solid gold.

Entrance was 40 baht for the Golden Buddha and 100 baht for the museum, open from 8am to 5pm (the museum closes on Mondays).

Yaowarat is one of the best places in the city for street food. Go hungry, then grab a coffee at one of the old coffee shops, or a Chang beer on the rooftop of the Grand China Princess Hotel.

2. Wat Mangkon

The Dragon Lotus Temple, the most important Chinese Buddhist temple in Bangkok, always busy with incense and worshippers.

3. Wat Saket, the Golden Mount

A golden stupa on top of an artificial hill, with one of the best views over the city. It takes about 300 steps to reach the top, and it is lovely at sunset. In November the stupa is wrapped in red cloth for the Loy Krathong fair.

Entrance was 50 baht, open from 7.30am to 7pm.

4. Khao San Road

Bangkok's famous backpacker street: a kilometre of hostels, bars, street food and souvenir stalls. It is best in the late afternoon and evening, and it is the perfect place for a foot massage after a long day of walking.

Day 2 - The Grand Palace, Wat Pho and Wat Arun

1. The Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew

The most important sight in Bangkok, and a must. Inside the complex there are several temples and pagodas, including Wat Phra Kaew, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha and the most sacred temple in Thailand. Don't miss the Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles, also inside.

It opens daily from 8.30am to 3.30pm, and tickets were 500 baht, much more than other temples but worth it. Allow at least two hours.

Tip: Be there at 8.30am, when it opens. You will have a much calmer visit and time to see everything.

2. Wat Pho

Five minutes on foot from the Grand Palace, Wat Pho is famous for its giant golden Reclining Buddha, 46 metres long, and for the beautiful paintings on its walls. Look out for the stone guardians in top hats at the gates.

Wat Pho is also the home of Thai massage, and the temple has its own massage school, a great place to try one. Massages were 260 baht for 30 minutes or 420 baht for an hour.

Entrance was 200 baht. The temple opens from 8am to 6.30pm and the massage school until 5pm.

Tip: If Wat Pho is packed, Wat Mahathat is a 10 minute walk north and much quieter.

3. Wat Arun

The Temple of Dawn stands right across the Chao Phraya river from Wat Pho. It is smaller but incredibly pretty, covered in coloured porcelain, and you can climb part of the central tower for a view over the river.

To get there, walk through Tha Tien market, grab a sweet snack and take the river boat across, which cost just a few baht. Entrance was 100 baht, open from 9am to 6pm.

Where to eat

• Thipsamai: Bangkok's most famous pad thai, recommended by the Michelin Guide and still cheap. The original shop on Maha Chai Road opens at 5pm to a queue, and there is also a branch at ICONSIAM.
• Tha Tien Pier, near the Grand Palace, for lunch.
• Yaowarat Road in Chinatown and Khao San Road for street food.
• Asiatique, a riverside night bazaar with food for every budget. It is also home to the Calypso Cabaret, one of the best known ladyboy shows in town.

Rooftop bars

Bangkok is famous for its rooftop bars, and many hotels along the Chao Phraya have one. The best known:

• Sky Beach, on the 78th floor of the King Power Mahanakhon tower. Seats are first come, first served, with tickets sold downstairs, so go early.
• Lebua Sky Bar, from the film The Hangover Part II, with a strict smart casual dress code. Open from 6pm.
• Vertigo and Moon Bar at the Banyan Tree, a favourite with locals, open from 5pm.
• Cru Champagne Bar and Seen.

If you have more time

• Damnoen Saduak Floating Market, the biggest and most famous, one to two hours from Bangkok. Go early, and try the boat noodles and coconut ice cream.
• Jim Thompson House, the home of the American who revived the Thai silk industry, full of Southeast Asian art. Entrance was 200 baht.
• A Muay Thai fight at Rajadamnern Stadium, about three hours of Thai boxing.
• Lumphini Park, the largest park in Bangkok, with swan boats on the lake and huge monitor lizards roaming freely. They are harmless, but keep your distance.