Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai, in the mountains of the north, is calmer and greener than Bangkok, with more than 300 temples, night markets everywhere and the jungle just outside the city. We flew up from Bangkok on 7 December 2023 (12.20pm to 1.35pm) and stayed two nights.

Getting from the airport

The airport is only 4 kilometres from the centre. There is a prepaid taxi stand outside the terminal (150 to 250 baht), red songthaews, where you agree the price before getting in (50 to 100 baht each), or Grab. Some hotels also offer a free shuttle.

Where to Sleep?

We stayed at Hyde Park Chiang Mai.

Getting around

• Grab, for taxis.
• Red songthaews, shared pick-up trucks that work as taxis around the city. Agree the price first.
• Yellow songthaews, with fixed routes to towns outside the city, for 20 to 30 baht.
• Scooters, if you are comfortable riding one.

Day 1 - The Old Town

The Old Town, inside the moat and the old city walls, has most of the main temples, markets and museums, plus plenty of bars, restaurants and agencies for day trips.

The temples

If you only have time for two, make them Wat Phra Singh and Wat Chedi Luang.

• Wat Phra Singh: one of the most revered temples in the north, with beautiful Lanna architecture.
• Wat Chedi Luang: a huge ruined chedi that once housed the Emerald Buddha, now in Bangkok's Grand Palace. Entrance was 40 baht.
• Wat Inthakhin Saduemuang: a small teak temple near the Three Kings Monument, with a free museum next door.
• Wat Chiang Man: the oldest temple in the city, with a marble Buddha and a crystal Buddha.
• Wat Mahawan: a mix of Lanna and Burmese styles, with sculptures of all kinds of creatures.
• Wat Saen Fang: old, pretty and unique.
• Wat Bupparam: entrance was 20 baht.
• Wat Sri Suphan: the Silver Temple, covered almost entirely in silver.

The markets

By day, visit Warorot Market, the largest in the city, and the flower market next to it on the river bank. In the evening, the Night Bazaar on Chang Klan Road opens every day from 6pm. Thailand is famous for its night markets, and Chiang Mai has some of the best.

Day 2 - Elephants and Doi Suthep

1. Elephant Nature Park

Chiang Mai is the place to meet elephants, and it is worth choosing an ethical sanctuary where you watch, feed and bathe them, with no riding and no shows. Elephant Nature Park was one of the first parks created to protect elephants, and it is the most respected in the area. It is also the most expensive: prices started at about 1,800 baht for half a day and reached 2,500 baht for a full day.

The park picks you up at your hotel, so be ready early. Our pick-up was at 8am.

2. Doi Suthep

Doi Suthep National Park starts just outside the city. Its most visited site is Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, a golden temple on top of the mountain with a 360 degree view over Chiang Mai. You can climb about 300 steps to the top or take a lift for an extra fee. Entrance was 30 baht, open from 6am to 8pm.

The best way to get there is by car or scooter, or by red songthaew. Nearby you can also visit Bhubing Palace, whose flower gardens are open to visitors (50 baht), and the Hmong village of Doi Pui, with a small waterfall and a garden (10 baht).

If you have more time

• A Muay Thai fight at Thapae or Kawila boxing stadium.
• A cabaret show. Any taxi driver will know where to take you.
• Museums: the Chiang Mai National Museum and the Lanna Folk Art Museum for the history of the Lanna kingdom, the Chiang Mai City Arts and Cultural Centre, and Art in Paradise, a fun 3D illusion museum.