Phi Phi

Koh Phi Phi is the postcard of Thailand: turquoise water, white sand and limestone cliffs rising straight out of the sea. We arrived by speedboat from Phuket on 12 December 2023, stayed one night and spent the next morning exploring the islands on a private long-tail boat.

Getting there

Speedboats leave Rassada Pier in Phuket every half hour from 8.30am. Ours cost about €17 each, booked on 12go.asia. There is a 20 baht entrance fee to pay when you arrive on Phi Phi Don.

Where to Sleep?

We stayed at Coco Bella Hotel.

The islands

Phi Phi is actually an archipelago:

• Phi Phi Don, the main island, where the boats arrive and where everyone stays.
• Phi Phi Leh, with Pileh Lagoon and Maya Bay, and Bamboo Island.
• Bida Nok and Bida Noi, the main diving spots.

Our private long-tail boat tour

Renting a long-tail boat is the best way to see the islands around Phi Phi Don. We booked a private six-hour tour, with a pick-up at 8am. The route started at Ton Sai Bay and stopped at:

• Monkey Beach (Sam Had Beach)
• Viking Cave
• Pileh Lagoon
• Loh Samah Bay
• Maya Bay
• Long Beach
• Moo Dee Bay
• Loh Ba Kao Bay
• Loh Lana
• Wang Long Bay

Maya Bay

The one beach on Phi Phi Leh, made famous by the film The Beach, and one of the most beautiful in the world. You pay a national park fee of 400 baht, and swimming is no longer allowed, to let the coral recover. Go before 10am, when most tour boats arrive.

Viking Cave

A huge cave at the foot of a cliff on Phi Phi Leh, named after old paintings of boats on its walls, one of which looks like a Viking ship. It is home to thousands of swifts. You can't go inside, but boats stop close enough to take a look.

Pileh Lagoon

A cove closed in by limestone cliffs and jungle, with emerald, shallow water that is perfect for a swim. There is not much coral left, but you can still see colourful fish, sometimes right from the boat.

Moo Dee Bay

A 500 metre white sand beach on the east coast of Phi Phi Don, with calm water, good snorkelling at both ends and a little Rasta shack selling food and drinks.

Monkey Beach

Clear water under tall cliffs, and dozens of monkeys playing in the trees. Keep your food and bags close.

On Phi Phi Don

Phi Phi Viewpoint

The most famous view on the island, over the two bays of Phi Phi Don. There are three viewpoints. The first is about a 30 minute walk from Loh Dalum Beach, and it is worth carrying on to the other two. Entrance was 30 baht for viewpoints 1 and 2 and 20 baht for viewpoint 3. Go at sunset, or early in the morning to avoid the heat.

The beaches

• Ton Sai Bay: the best known beach, but full of long-tail boats, so not great for swimming.
• Loh Dalum: a short walk from Ton Sai Pier, long and soft, with turquoise water for swimming, kayaking and snorkelling.
• Long Beach: quieter, about 3 kilometres on foot from Ton Sai village.
• Laem Tong: reached by long-tail boat.

If you have more time

Bamboo Island is a small island ringed with white sand, with good coral reefs just off its western shore and a little bar for drinks and snacks.