Yangshuo

If you only see one landscape in China, make it this one. Between Guilin and Yangshuo, the Li River winds through hundreds of karst peaks, rice fields and bamboo, the view printed on the back of the 20 yuan note. We arrived by boat on 9 August 2025 and left at the end of the next day.

The Li River cruise

The cruise leaves from Mopanshan Pier, about 40 kilometres (40 minutes) from Guilin, between 9.30am and 10.30am. It takes four to five hours depending on the water level, and arrives at Longtoushan Pier in Yangshuo around 1.30pm, close to West Street. We went on a three-star ship with e-tickets.

Tip: Grab a spot on the top deck. The best scenery comes in the second half of the trip, near Xingping.

Where to Sleep?

We stayed at the Dyed Mount Boutique Hotel, surrounded by the mountains.

Tip: Ask your hotel if they have bikes. It is the best way to explore the countryside.

Day 1 - West Street and beer fish

After the cruise, we spent the rest of the day at the hotel and walking along West Street, the lively heart of Yangshuo, full of shops, bars and restaurants.

The dish to try is beer fish: fresh fish from the Li River cooked in beer with tomatoes and peppers. Two of the most recommended places are Tao's Authentic Beer Fish (陶家正宗啤酒鱼) and Older Sister Peng's Beer Fish (彭大姐啤酒鱼).

Day 2 - Cycling along the Yulong River

We spent our full day in Yangshuo on two wheels. The classic route is the Yulong River loop: about 30 kilometres and four to five hours with stops.

The route goes Yangshuo, Baisha, Jiuxian Village, Xiangui Bridge, Gongnong Bridge, Ten-mile Gallery and back to Yangshuo:

• From Yangshuo, ride along the G321 road for about 8.5 kilometres and turn left near Baisha.
• After about 3.5 kilometres you reach Jiuxian Village. Leave the bike and walk around its old houses.
• Follow the Yulong River towards Gongnong Bridge. On the way, Xiangui Bridge has a wonderful view of the river and the mountains on both sides.
• You will pass Jima Wharf and Shuidi Wharf, where the bamboo rafts start. The trails along the river show the hills reflected in the water.
• At Gongnong Bridge, leave the bike and stop for a while. It sits on both the Yulong River and the Ten-mile Gallery, and the view on both sides is magnificent.
• From there, ride north for about 30 minutes back to Yangshuo.

Bamboo rafting

A bamboo raft down the Yulong River is the slowest and most peaceful way to see the scenery, with a boatman pushing the raft with a long pole. From West Street it is a 35 minute ride to Jima Wharf, 45 minutes to Shuidi Wharf or an hour to Yulong Bridge. You can also get there by Didi or by shared golf cart.

The rafts finish at Gongnong Bridge, where shared golf carts take you back to your starting point. Some operators also bring your bike to the other end.

Leaving Yangshuo

At the end of the day we went to Guilin airport to fly to Hangzhou. The easiest option is a taxi booked through your hotel: it was a fixed ¥300 and took about an hour. There are also buses from Yangshuo Bus North Station, near West Street, but check the times when you arrive.