Hangzhou

Marco Polo is said to have called Hangzhou the most beautiful city in the world. It is built around West Lake, with lotus flowers, willow trees, pagodas and tea fields on the hills around it. After the mountains of Guangxi, it was the perfect slower stop. We were here from 10 to 12 August 2025.

Where to Sleep?

We stayed at the Desti Youth Park Hostel West Lake and paid €74.

1. West Lake

Right in the middle of the city, a huge lake full of lotus flowers, surrounded by small hills and paths lined with willows. Walking or cycling around it is free, although some gardens and sights charge a ticket. Don't miss it in the evening, when the lights come on.

2. Southern Song Imperial Street

Nan Song Yu Jie was the royal street of the Southern Song dynasty, when Hangzhou was the capital of China. Only the emperor was allowed to walk on it. Today it has old houses, traditional crafts and a great ancient China feeling.

3. Hefang Street

The most famous street in Hangzhou, and its only well-preserved ancient street. In the Song dynasty it was the busiest business street in town. Today it is full of old shops, snacks and souvenirs.

4. Longjing tea village

Hangzhou is famous for Longjing, or Dragon Well, green tea. Longjing Village, west of the lake, is where it comes from: tea fields on the hills, tea houses and families who sell their own leaves. The village is free to visit, and you can easily spend two to five hours there.

If you have more time

Lingyin Temple

The most famous temple in Hangzhou, more than a thousand years old, with giant Buddhas and grand halls. If you only have time for one temple, make it this one. Tickets were ¥45, and you need about two hours.

Beigaofeng (North Peak)

A hike of 35 to 40 minutes up the stairs, or a 10 minute cable car ride for ¥8, to a temple at the top with a view over the whole city. The temple is said to be good for wishing for wealth.

Faxi Temple

A quieter temple in the hills behind Lingyin, surrounded by forest.

What to eat in Hangzhou

• Dongpo pork (东坡肉): braised pork belly, sweet and salty, named after the poet Su Dongpo, who was once the governor of Hangzhou.
• Beggar's chicken (叫花鸡): a whole chicken cooked in clay.
• Cong bao hui (葱包桧): fried dough with spring onion, with sweet or spicy sauce.
• Longjing shrimp (龙井虾仁): shrimp stir-fried with Dragon Well tea leaves.
• West Lake vinegar fish (西湖醋鱼): the city's most famous dish, and the one Chinese people love to joke about. It is a whole fish, so watch out for bones.
• Song Sao fish soup (宋嫂鱼羹): a thick fish soup with no bones, if the vinegar fish is not for you.

For traditional Hangzhou food near the lake, Lou Wai Lou, Xin Xin Fan Dian and Shan Wai Shan are the classics. Hangzhou Jiu Jia also serves local food, Kui Yuan Guan is the place for noodles and Zhi Wei Guan for dumplings and steamed buns. Grandma's House (外婆家) is a Hangzhou chain found in almost every shopping centre.