Helsinki

Helsinki was our first stop: a small, calm capital by the sea, with green spaces everywhere, great design and islands just off the coast. We spent three days here in April 2023 before taking the night train north to Lapland.

Tip: Buy the HSL AB day ticket. For 24 hours it covers trams, buses, the metro, commuter trains and the ferry to Suomenlinna.

Suomenlinna Sea Fortress

The highlight of our time in Helsinki. Suomenlinna is a huge sea fortress built across a group of islands at the entrance to the harbor, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is only reachable by water: the ferry leaves from Market Square (Kauppatori) and takes 15 to 20 minutes, with lovely views of Helsinki from the sea.

The best way to see it is the Blue Route, about 1.5 kilometers marked with blue signs. It runs from the main quay in front of the Jetty Barracks, past all the main sights, to the King's Gate at the southern end.

More to see in Helsinki

The center is compact and easy to walk. These are the sights on our list:

Market Square and the Old Market Hall

Helsinki's best-known market, by the harbor, with stalls selling market food, crafts and souvenirs. Next to it is the Havis Amanda fountain (1908), one of the city's best-loved statues. A short walk away, the Old Market Hall sells fish, meat, Finnish cakes and cheese, and is worth a look even if you are not shopping. It is open Monday to Saturday.

Uspenski Cathedral

The largest Orthodox church in Western Europe, with golden domes and a red brick façade, one of the clearest signs of Russia's influence on Finnish history.

Helsinki Cathedral and Senate Square

The white cathedral with its tall green dome is the symbol of the city, and from the water at night it shines like a lighthouse. It was built in the mid-19th century as St Nicholas' Church, in honor of Tsar Nicholas I, who was also Grand Duke of Finland.

Esplanadi

Known to locals as Espa, a long strip of park in the middle of the city where people come for picnics and to relax in summer. The Design District, full of small shops by Finnish designers, starts right next to it.

Temppeliaukio Church

A church carved straight into the rock, with a copper dome on top. Its acoustics make it a popular concert venue.

Sibelius Monument

In Sibelius Park, by the sea in Töölö: an abstract sculpture by Eila Hiltunen made of 600 steel tubes, like a giant pipe organ, in honor of the composer Jean Sibelius.

Museums and architecture

• Kiasma, the Museum of Contemporary Art. Closed on Mondays.
• The National Museum of Finland, open from Tuesday to Sunday.
• Finlandia Hall, designed by Alvar Aalto.
• Helsinki Central Railway Station, with its famous stone giants holding lamps.

Beyond the center

Seurasaari

An island open-air museum of traditional Finnish buildings from all over the country, free to visit.

Porvoo

A little town about 50 kilometers away, with red wooden warehouses along the river and an old cathedral.

Nuuksio National Park

Forests and lakes just outside the city, reached by bus from Espoo.

If you have more time

• The old wooden house districts of Puu-Vallila and Puu-Käpylä.